Infopage

Grooming:

First of all before you do anything at all is get everything ready

for your groom. our will need a wire dog brush, dog shampoo,

clippers, toe nail clippers ( if you are uncomfortable clipping

the nails you can use a coarse finger nail file). You will need a

towel. The most important thing you need to bring is YOUR

patients. Remember there is a reason why there are so many

dog groomers in your town, it is a difficult job & few have the

patients to do it on their own.

One of the biggest mistakes people make when trying to

groom their own dog is thinking that you have to bathe the

dog before you do anything. Have you ever tried to brush

out wet dog's hair? Well first of all you can't do it wet, & second of all you cant get the hair dry if it is all matted. Oh I am sure you can do it, but you will lose the patients of your dog long before you get the grooming finished.

Step#1 . Brush out your dog & trim excessively long hair that you know you are

going to trim off anyway's. There is no need in washing & drying hair that you

are going to cut off. After you get ALL of the tangles out of the dog, you may

now take him to the tub.

Step # 2. Bathe the dog with dog shampoo, many human shampoos have

chemicals that may agitate the dog's skin. I use "All American Pet Pro

Filthy Animal Shampoo" ( it is hypoallergenic & it is ok to get in your

dog's eyes) Scrub your dog with your hands not a scrub brush. Remember

you just brushed out all those tangles & your dog's skin is sensitive.

Scrub her from her nose to the tip of her tail down to her tippy toes. Be

careful to not get water in her ears (continuous shaking of the head may

indicate water in the ears). After the bath rince THROUGHLY do not leave

soap behind, this will create a home for dirt & build up which will result in

the entire grooming process sooner than later.

Step # 3. Towel dry the dog first & if you have a dog blow dryer use it.

(Human hair dryers blow HOT air & will burn your dog, do not use

them unless you have the option to use cool air) If you don't have

a dog blow dryer a shop vac with the hose turned around into the

blowing switch works well. If you have a blower do not blow air

directly into the dog's face, he just may decide this is enough &

try to exit the grooming area Towel dry the face & dry it last give

the face as much time to dry itself on its own. Make sure the dog

is completely dry before proceeding to step # 4.

Step # 4. This is the step where you just may get snapped at

. Be Careful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Most dogs do not like this. If you are nervous so is your dog, if you do

not feel comfortable trimming the nails then go ahead 7 use the coarse

finger nail file. Most dogs will not put too much of a fight with this. A

dremel works well if you have one, put it at a slow setting. The safest

way to tell how far you can trim off is to look underneath the nail there

is a hollow area towards the tip. You can safely trim off the hollow are

but do NOT go past that. If you are trimming your dog's nails so that

they do not scratch you, STOP RIGHT NOW!!! you will not be able to

accomplish that with out injuring your dog, not to mention you will

NEVER be able to trim that particular dog's nails again.

Step # 5. This is the actual "grooming" part. So far what you have

done is what we groomers call "Bath & Brush" Now this is the

hard part. If you are unsure how you want your dog's hair cut

get a book & study pictures take it to your local groomer maybe

she will help you with understanding which clipper blades to

use & where to use them. There is no way I can go through all

of the haircuts there are thousands.

Step # 6. This is the fun part, For the ladies they get little bows in her ears, & the gentleman get bandannas around their necks. The perfume I use is also an All American Pet Pro product.

NEVER spray the perfume in the dogs face, to keep the sweet perfume smell longer spray the bandanna.

1-2 squirts usually does the trick.

Step # 7. Enjoy your clean dog & take him for a walk to show off your last 2 hours of hard work.

Here is some information on the terrible disease commonly known as Parvo!!

This is the Disease we recently lost our beloved Gracie to, & we do NOT want this ever to happen to your dog, so please read & understand

it is a very dangerous doggy disease.

Information On ParvoVirus

Parvovirus

Parvovirus is a viral disease of dogs. It affects puppies much more frequently than it affects adult dogs. The virus likes to grow in rapidly dividing cells. The intestinal lining has the biggest concentration of rapidly dividing cells in a puppy's body. The virus attacks and kills these cells, causing diarrhea (often bloody), depression and suppression of white blood cells -- which come from another group of rapidly dividing cells. In very young puppies it can infect the heart muscle and lead to "sudden" death.

Parvovirus Vaccination

Parvovirus is probably the most common viral illness of dogs at the present time. It is much more common in puppies than it is in adult dogs. It can be very hard to successfully vaccinate a puppy for this disease because the antibody protection the puppy acquires from its mother can interfere with vaccination. Many vets recommend vaccinating puppies every three to four weeks for this virus starting at 6 weeks of age and continuing until they are at least 16 weeks of age and preferably 20 weeks of age. It is possible that this vaccine confers lifelong immunity once it does work but most veterinarians continue to recommend yearly vaccination for it. It seems prudent to at least get the vaccination at one year of age. Since it is combined with the other vaccines it is often easier just to give it yearly with them.

What are the symptoms of Parvo?

Parvo" is a virus that attacks the lining of the digestive system. It causes dogs and puppies to not be able to absorb nutrients or liquids. Puppies are especially prone to it because they have an immature immune system. When dogs and puppies contract parvo, they often have diarrhea, vomiting and lethargy. Usually they stop eating and develop a bloody, foul-smelling, liquid stool.

Symptoms usually begin with a high fever, lethargy, depression, and loss of appetite. Secondary symptoms appear as severe gastrointestinal distress, such as vomiting and bloody diarrhea. In many cases, dehydration, shock, and death follow.

Parvovirus is characterized by severe, bloody diarrhea and vomiting, high fever and lethargy. The diarrhea is particularly foul smelling and is sometimes yellow in color. Parvo can also attack a dog's heart causing congestive heart failure. This complication can occur months or years after an apparent recovery from the intestinal form of the disease.

How is Parvo transmitted?

Canine Parvovirus is carried by dogs. Adult dogs may be infected carriers without showing any clinical signs. Dogs with the typical diarrhea that Parvovirus causes shed the virus as well. It can last a long time in the environment, perhaps as long as 9 months or longer.

Generally, it takes 7-10 days from the time of exposure for dogs and puppies to start showing symptoms and to test positive for parvo.

Parvo is highly contagious to unprotected dogs, and the virus can remain infectious in ground contaminated with fecal material for five months or more if conditions are favorable. Extremely hardy, most disinfectants cannot kill the virus, however chlorine bleach is the most effective and inexpensive agent that works, and is commonly used by veterinarians.

The ease with which infection with Parvo can occur in any unvaccinated dog must be stressed. The virus is extremely hardy in the environment. Withstanding wide temperature fluctuations and most cleaning agents. Parvo can be brought home to your dog on shoes, hands and even car tires. It can live for many months outside the animal. Any areas that are thought to be contaminated with parvo should be thoroughly washed with chlorine bleach diluted 1 ounce per quart of water.

Dogs and puppies can contract parvo even if they never leave their yards. Parvo virus, despite what you might hear, is NOT an airborne virus. It is excreted in the feces of infected dogs, and if someone -- human, dog, bird, etc. -- steps in (or otherwise comes in contact with) the excrement, the possibility for contamination is great. Some people speculate that birds invading a dog's food dish can deposit the Parvovirus there. If you think you may have come in contact with Parvovirus, a strong solution of bleach and water does kill the virus, so you can wash your shoes and clothes, even your hands with it, to reduce the risk of infecting your dog.

Rest assured that Parvovirus is specific to dogs alone and cannot be transmitted to humans or other pets of a different species, such as cats.

How is Parvo treated?

Without intense treatment, the victims of parvo die of dehydration. Treatment generally consists of IV or subcutaneous fluids and antibiotics. There is no cure. Veterinarians can only treat the symptoms palliative, and try to keep the dog alive by preventing dehydration and loss of proteins. As there is no cure for any virus, treatment for parvo is mostly that of supporting the different systems in the body during the course of the disease. This includes giving fluids, regulating electrolyte levels, controlling body temperature and giving blood transfusions when necessary.

Dogs who have survived parvo can get it again. In the case of some puppies, a puppy testing negative for Parvo one day could succumb to the virus within a matter of days. It strikes fast and without mercy. Dr. Cathy Priddle has warned that sulfa drugs have been known to cause dehydration in dogs, suggesting that animals infected with Parvovirus should not be given sulfa drugs.

You may also consult a homeopathic or naturopathic veterinarian for alternative Parvo treatments. There are some natural and homeopathic treatments for Parvo on the retail market. Amber Technology offers Parvaid, an all natural herbal formula that the manufacturer claims has helped some animals overcome Parvo.

Will my dog die if he gets Parvo?

This is a very serious disease. Some puppies infected with Parvovirus will die despite prompt and adequate treatment. While no extremely accurate statistics are available, a good guess is probably that 80% of puppies treated for Parvovirus will live. Without treatment, probably 80% or more of the infected puppies would die.

Due to the high death rate, Parvovirus gets a lot of free publicity. Many people just assume that any case of diarrhea in a dog is from Parvovirus. This is not true. There are a lot of other diseases and disorders that lead to diarrhea. If you have a puppy, don't take any chances. Have your puppy examined by your vet if diarrhea is a factor in any disease. It is better to be safe than to be sorry.

If your dog becomes infected with Parvovirus, he has about a 50-50 chance of survival. If he makes it through the first three to four days, he will usually make a rapid recovery, and be back on his feet within a week. It is vital, however, that he receives supportive therapy immediately. It must be stressed that this is not a bad case of doggy flu; without medical treatment, most puppies die.

Information from workingdogs.com

Puppy Recommendations!!!

So your Deposit is in & you are very excited about the up-coming newest family member. So Now What? What can you do to get ready for your new Mis B-Haven Doodle?

First We recommend you prep your children that a dog is allot of responsibility, & they will have to pick up doggy poo, & they will have to do it everyday, Puppies & Dogs do not use the toilet.

After all of the lecturing & talking about the arrival of the new puppy, you all want to go to the Pet Store & everybody get to pick out a collar, leash, toys, food, treats, beds, food bowels, crates etc.... the list goes on & on.

Here is what WE recommend you get for your new puppy & why...

1) Crate: We feel it is very important that you crate train your puppy, it makes for better house training experience for both you & your puppy. It makes traveling with your dog safer & less stressfully. If he is already used to a crate & likes his crate then there is no problem with him sleeping in his crate when out of town & your picky relatives house, who will NOT allow a dirty dog to sleep in her home..

2). Collar & Leash: This is obvious, your puppy will be much safer when you take him or her on a walk if you have control of him, & besides it is the law. We recommend NOT the snap collars, they can break when that plastic gets old, We recommend the belt buckle type of collar.

3) Toys, Toys, Toys: When you bring your puppy home at 7-8 weeks she is teething, Yes that is right Teething just like your 6 month old human babies, they are going to want to chew on everything, you need to have something there that he is allowed to chew on, other wise he is going to chew your shoes, water hose, anything he can find to ease the pain of his new teethe coming in. & that will really not be his fault.

4) Bed: He needs a cozy bed to sleep on while he is in his crate, I would suggest the kind that you can un zip & wash when dirty. Make the Bed big enough so when you Doodle grows she can still fit on it, no need in buying 2 beds.

5) Treats: I like candy, you like cookies, your puppy likes treats, but you must feed them to the puppy like you would feed candy to your kids. Treats are just that a treat, it is NOT a source of food. Please use treats as a reward, or just something that is given once or twice per day, more that that is excessive.

6) Food Dishes: Unless you want to eat out of the same bowel that the doodle is eating out of you need to get them their own food dish, & besides it will teach the dog to eat ONLY out of that bowel, he will be less likely to NOT beg for food when you eat from a bowel that he doesn't. Unless the kids start eating out of the cute doggy bowel with paw prints on it. LOL

7) Dog Shampoo: Lets face it Human shampoos (other than baby shampoo) is simply too harsh for your puppy's skin, We recommend a nice clean smelling, natural mild shampoo for your puppy.

8) Brushes: Remember the grooming talk we had, I said they don't require much grooming but they do need brushed. Mats are a terrible thing for a dog to have, behind their ears, those hurt, they constantly pulling Out he hair, Get a brush to keep the mats away, unless you want to share your hair brush.

Information on Coccidia

GUARDING AGAINST GIARDIA

Maggie Fisher BVetMed MRCV

Early in 1995, the kennel population of more than 100 dogs at the Guide Dogs for the Blind Association's Midlands Regional Center in Leamington Spa was hit by an unusually severe outbreak of diarrhea. The cause turned out to be an infection of the intestine by a commonly, single celled organism - or protozan known as Giardia. A combined treatment and disinfection strategy was then introduced that brought the infection under control.

Maggie Fisher, a veterinary surgeon with a special interest in parasitology, was called in to help deal with the Giardia outbreak, and in the following paper she describes the infection and how it can be treated and controlled

The division of Giardia into groups according to species is still somewhat confused; the organisms that infect mammals look very similar but it remains unclear to what extent they form one or a number of species. It is for this reason that, while Giardia infection in some mammals, including dogs, is suspected of being infectious to man (ie: a zoonosis), it has not been conclusively shown that the species in, for example, dogs and man is the same.

The Giardia trophozoite - which is the active stage of the organism - inhabits the small intestine of the dog. It attaches to the cells of the intestine with its adhesive disc and rapidly divides to produce a whole population of trophozoites. As they detach they may be swept down the intestine. If intestinal flow is fast then they may appear in the faeces. However, if they have time, they will develop into the inactive, more durable, cyst form of the organism and these will be passed in the faeces. The cyst is more able to survive in the environment than the trophozoite, which is very fragile.

How do Giardia cause disease in dogs?

Like all infectious agents, in order to cause disease Giardia depaends on being able to overcome the dog's defence against infection, either by its virulence or by the number of the organisms becoming established. It has been observed that as few as 10 cycsts can cause disease in humans. Different anaimals may respond to infection in different ways, which may be due to different strains of the sam Giardia population, with varying levels of pathogenicity. Another explanation for observed differences in the host response to infection is that protective immunity with age and/or exposure. This may be temporarily lost if the animal is stressed or immunosuppressed, for example with corticosteroid treatment.

What is the source of infection for dogs?

The original source of an outbreak may be cysts in contaminated water or the environment. In addition, infected dogs which may be either carriers (ie: show no clinical signs but continue to harbour infection and pass cysts into the environment) or dogs that have diarrhoea associated with infection may act as the source. Surveys have shown that about 14% of the adult dog population and over 30% of dogs under one year of age were infected. Once passed, the cysts can survive in cold water for several months.

The cysts are infective as soon as they are passed, unlike other parasites where a lag period is necessary before the organism is infective. The most common route of infection is faeco-oral. For example, dogs may accidentaly eat cysts as they lick around theenvironment or lick other dogs' coats (particularly if the other dog has diarrhoea). Another major source of infection in human cases is drinking contaminated water. Once eaten, the cyst breaks open in the animals' intestine and releases two new trophozoites to initiate infection. If a dog is left in a dirty environment it may act as its own source of further infectionas it eats cysts passed in its own faeces.

What are the clinical signs associated with infection?

The trophozoites divide to produce a large population, then they begin to interfere with the absorption of food, so faeces from affected animals are typically light coloured, greasy and soft. These signs, together with the beginning of cyst shedding, begin abou tone week post-infection. There may be additional signs of large intestinal irritation, such as straining and mucus in the faeces, even though the Giardia do not colonise the large intestine. Usually the blood picture of affected animals is normal, though occasionally there is a slight increase in the number of eosinophils (one of several types of white blood cells) and mild anaemia. Without treatment, the condition may continue, either chronically or intermittently, for weeks or months.

How can infection be diagnosed?

Diagnosis is based on demonstration of the infection and the elimination of other possible causes of diarrhoea (eg: Salmonella or Campylobacter), Giardia cysts may be observed directly in faecal samples or indirectly using an elisa technique. Direct examination of faeces, using zinc sulphate centrifugal flotation. followed by staining the supernatant with Lugol's iodine, has been found to be upto 70% effective at detecting infection from a single faecal sample. The cyst output is very variable from day to day so the detection rate may be improved by pooling faecal samples collected over three days. Faecal examination is the cheapest method but is time consuming and requires an experienced technician for reliable results.

The elisa technique requires a kit and some method of reading a colour change or production of flourescence. Studies examining the reliability of some immunoflourescent kits have found them to be over 90% accurate, with relatively few false negatives or false postives. However, the tests are costly and probably only wothwhile where there are alarge number of samples to be processed and a technician who is familiar with carrying out elisas.

Coccidia (Coccidiosis)

by Race Foster, DVM and Marty Smith, DVM

Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.

What are coccidia?

Coccidia are small protozoa's (one-celled organisms) that multiply in the intestinal tracts of dogs and cats, most commonly in kittens and puppies less than six months of age, in adult animals whose immune system is suppressed or in animals who are stressed in other ways (e.g., change in ownership, other disease present).

In cats and dogs, most coccidia are of the genus called Isospora. Isospora canis and I. ohioensis are the species most often encountered in dogs; I. felis and I. rivolta are the most common in cats. Regardless of which species is present we generally refer to the disease as coccidiosis. As a puppy or kitten ages it tends to develop a natural immunity to the effects of coccidia. As an adult it may carry coccidia in its intestines, shed the cyst in the feces, but experience no ill effects.

How are coccidia transmitted?

A puppy or kitten is not born with the coccidia organisms in its intestine. However, once born, the puppy or kitten is frequently exposed to its mother's feces and if the mother is shedding the infective cysts in her feces then the young animals will likely ingest them and coccidia will develop within their intestines. Since young puppies and kittens, usually those less than six months of age, have no immunity to coccidia, the organisms reproduce in great numbers and parasitize the young animal's intestines. Oftentimes this has severe effects.

From exposure to the coccidia in feces to the onset of the illness is about 13 days. Most puppies and kittens who are ill from coccidia are, therefore, two weeks of age and older. Although most infections are the result of spread from the mother, this is not always the case. Any infected kitten or puppy is contagious to other puppies and kittens. In breeding facilities, shelters, animal hospitals, etc., it is wise to isolate those infected from those that are not.

What are the symptoms of coccidiosis?

The primary sign of an animal suffering with coccidiosis is diarrhea. The diarrhea may be mild to severe depending on the level of infection. Blood and mucous may be present, especially in advanced cases. Severely affected animals may also vomit, lose their appetite, become dehydrated, and in some instances, die from the disease.

Most infected kittens and puppies encountered by the authors are in the four to twelve week age group. The possibility of coccidiosis should always be considered when a loose stool or diarrhea is encountered in this age group. A microscopic fecal exam by a veterinarian will detect the cysts confirming a diagnosis.

What are the risks?

Although many cases are mild it is not uncommon to see severe, bloody diarrhea result in dehydration and even death. This is most common in animals who are ill or infected with other parasites, bacteria or viruses. Coccidiosis is very contagious, especially among young kittens and puppies. Entire kennels and catteries may become contaminated with puppies and kittens of many age groups simultaneously affected.

What is the treatment of coccidiosis?

It should be mentioned that stress plays a role in the development of coccidiosis. It is not uncommon for a seemingly healthy puppy or kitten to arrive at its new home and develop diarrhea several days later leading to a diagnosis of coccidia. If the puppy or kitten has been at the new home for less than thirteen days then it had coccidia before it arrived. Remember the incubation period (from exposure to illness) is about thirteen days. If the puppy or kitten has been with its new owner several weeks, then the exposure to coccidia most likely occurred after the animal arrived at the new home. The authors merely point this out as they have been involved in legal cases as to who was responsible for the cost of treatment, the breeder or new owner. Usually coccidia was present only to surface during the stressful period of the puppy or kitten adjusting to a new home.

Fortunately coccidiosis is treatable. Drugs such as sulfadimethoxine (Albon), trimethoprim-sulfadiazine (Tribrissen) and amprolium (Corid) have all been effective in the treatment and prevention of coccidia. Because these drugs do not kill the organisms, but rather inhibit their reproduction capabilities, elimination of coccidia from the intestine is not rapid. By stopping the ability of the protozoa to reproduce, time is allowed for the puppy's own immunity to develop and remove the organisms. Drug treatments of five or more days are usually required.

How is coccidiosis prevented or controlled?

Because coccidia is spread by the feces of carrier animals, it is very important to practice strict sanitation. All fecal material should be removed. Housing needs to be such that food and water cannot become contaminated with feces. Clean water should be provided at all times. Most disinfectants do not work well against coccidia; incineration of the feces, and steam cleaning, immersion in boiling water or a 10% ammonia solution are the best methods to kill coccidia. Coccidia can withstand freezing.

Cockroaches and flies can mechanically carry coccidia from one place to another. Mice and other animals can ingest the coccidia and when killed and eaten by a cat, for instance, can infect the cat. Therefore, insect and rodent control are very important in preventing coccidiosis.

The coccidia species of dogs and cats do not infect humans.